Every Morocco itinerary includes Fes. Most Morocco itineraries underestimate it.
Travellers who spend half a day in the medina of Fes often describe it as chaotic, confusing, and difficult to navigate — which is accurate, but misses the point. The Fes Medina is not a sight to be efficiently processed. It is a city to be inhabited, however briefly, with enough time to stop being lost and start discovering where you actually are.
The Scale
Fes el-Bali — the ancient walled medina — is the largest car-free urban area in the world. It covers approximately three square kilometres and contains approximately 9,000 alleyways. Within this area live an estimated 150,000 people, along with hundreds of mosques, dozens of ancient madrasas, countless hammams, and the souks where artisans have practised their trades for centuries.
The History
Fes was founded in 789 AD and settled by refugees from Córdoba and from Kairouan. The Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University — founded in 859 AD — is recognised as the world’s oldest continuously operating university. This history is not background context — it is the living fabric of the city.
The Tanneries
The Chouara Tanneries are the most photographed element of the Fes Medina. Viewed from a balcony above the tanning floor, the dye vats are an extraordinary visual spectacle: large stone circles filled with pigment in vivid shades of yellow, red, green, and blue, surrounded by workers who continue to process leather using methods that have not changed substantially in a thousand years.
With and Without a Guide
A good local guide in Fes does not simply show you the monuments. They explain the context. They navigate the alleyways with the confidence of someone who grew up in them. They turn what could be a bewildering half-day into a genuinely formative experience. All private desert tours from Fes, Casablanca, and Tangier include a local guide for the Fes Medina. It is not an optional extra — it is part of what makes the visit to Fes worthwhile.